Worth the tube ride (or splurge on a taxi) is this beautiful restaurant located on the Thames in the plush town of Richmond. Steak is an art form here where master grillers trained by Daniel Veron serve up cuts of quadrille, chorizo, ancho and filet done just perfectly (salted on just one side.) Whether it's about the cut of the meat (turns out the rib-eye, the ancho, is tastier than the filet), or the way the steak is grilled (60% on one side, 40% on the other because the heat is trapped), this restaurant knows it. Head sommelier Phil Crozier pairs fabulous wines, a 2004 Zuccardi 'Q' malbec from Mendoza goes perfectly, for example, with the cut that is part skirt, part sirloin. A 2004 Caladoc grenache malbec blend in its second vintage goes well with the filet, and so forth. Non meat eaters, who just can't resist coming for the view - and it is stupendous - can find something on the menu too, what with the nice salads, and superb sides, but to be honest, this place could turn the staunchest of vegetarians into a carnivore.

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