Some people say that Tom Aiken is all about the surface - all outer gloss at his spots, not so much substance. Funnily enough, this fish and chips spot is that to the 'T'. Located in Chelsea, he's gone all eco on us. No more cod, he's doing only sustainable fish such as pollack. The decor is all done with recycled materials. The irony is that while the effect on the fisheries and local lumberyards may be environmentally friendly, don't expect your innards to be feeling the same; fries are served up cooked in beef drippings. That said, expect to queue up for the tasty goods. After all, everyone agrees; love him or hate him, Aiken put other London food back on the map, as he's sure to do with this classic dish as well.

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