For food writers, the roast chicken is often considered the 'boring' choice or the non- event of any menu; this is not the case here. This is the best roast chicken we've had in any city, from any kitchen (sorry Mom!) We never write about a restaurant that's inside the basement of a hotel so when we do, you know it’s really special. This spot, named after the hotel’s famous Victorian architect, Sir Edwin Landseer Lutyens, headed up by Michelin starred consultant chef John Wood and exec head chef Paul O’Brien might be the best of British we’ve ever had. With a deceptively non- descript, straightforward sounding menu of locally sourced produce (such as Hebridean scallops, Gressingham duck, Black Mountain Welsh Valley lamb and Perthshire steak) – dishes are named simply ‘lobster bisque’ or ‘roast duck breast’ – this spot undersells and overdelivers. Order the aforementioned lobster bisque, with succulent lobster chunks, as well as the roast chicken. Have the side salad, lightly tinged with a sweet vinaigrette that misses the cloying saltiness of all the vinaigrettes which came before. Give in to basic green beans, done beautifully with a hint of butter. And let the staff – who really know what they’re doing – choose your wines for you. This one surprised us, and trust us, it will surprise you. And your date, or your client, or Mom. Bring her; she’ll love the chicken.

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