The corsetting used in the Lionel Ohayon- designed leather columns is probably the only thing even remotely similar to the kind of kink this neighbourhood used to be known for. Where restaurant industry vet Celeste Fierro's chic restaurant One now sits, the buzz all around is the mad rush of Upper East siders in the overdeveloped Meatpacking District running to and fro from the designer shops, touristy French bistros, clubs you can only get to via freight elevator - and also the yammering over cocktails in this fantastic Modern American spot. We like this place both for its eats and the drinks scene - the latter of which is innocuous and fun. Sit for the roasted long stem artichoke and ginger steamed halibut served with tasty tomatoes, prosciutto and fava beans and don't miss chef Martine Flores' Campofrio serrano ham risotto balls and Campofrio chorizo in a garlic sauce. We promise it's worth all the mints you eat after because CF is the only Spanish company allowed to import real chorizo to the U.S. Then have your chianti with this preppy crowd for whom this is their walk on the wild side - of 14th Street, that is.

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