restaurants
Sant Ambroeus
259 West 4th Street
212 604 9254

The son also rises. Dimitri Pauli, son of Hans and Francesca Pauli, continues his parents tribute to Italian excellence with this new location for Sant Ambroeus. Dimitri and partner Gherardo Guarducci's Milanese style espresso bar is a gelato shop, pastries counter, breakfast meeting spot and posh, comfortable dining room all in one. Since the closing of the Madison Sant Ambroeus little ladies in hats and European art dealers have had to trek out to the Hamptons for their fix. Well, now there's another location for those who are city- locked. Guarducci and Pauli must believe in Italian lingering because the new spot is cozy featuring warm rust coloured table runners, dark wood tables, creme- coloured tiling and suede banquettes. Traditional dishes such as an artichoke/ parmesan salad, risottos (the best one is the seafood one, light but filled with succulent crab, shrimp, mussels, lobster and clams), desserts such as exotic fruit salad, tiramisu and pear gelato with pear liqueur, are all near to perfect. With even the olives in the bread practically screaming, "fresh from Italy", plan on fighting US for a spot at breakfast, lunch, AND dinner, seven days a week.

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