restaurants
Maremma
228 West 10th Street
212 645 0200

The Wild West goes Italian? Yah, we don't know about this horn-happy theme either but we like the unusual efforts here. Starting with the Rocky Mountain Oysters - kids, those would be battered fried 'nads. Tasty if you can swallow it. We favour the Coyote - for some reason they call them Tuscan flapjacks but it's really sheets of pasta with basil and cilantro pesto, the pork fried steak with mushrooms and Grana Padano, and the Tiburzi which is a pot roast with Castagneto vegetables. The only dish we really didn't like is the gnocchi. Skip it. Anyhoo, the reason for coming here is to follow Cesare Casella's evolution. Of Beppe fame, he also has books Diary of a Tuscan Chef and Italian Cooking for Dummies to his credit; his inventiveness is worth the trip. Let us know what else he cooks up. Literally.

$$

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