The time for Matthew Kenney's Heirloom is right because who hasn't been freaked out by mad cow, vaccinated chickens, hoof and mouth disease, whatnot. And so this vegetarian alternative which does both raw and cooked options is appealing to even those who used to long for a juicy steak. With Amanda Cohen as Chef de Cuisine (who followed Matthew from Pure Food and Wine and famously also worked with Moby at Teany), we recommend the sushi rolls and beet appetiser. Soups such as pumpkin and the noodle dishes garner rave reviews while anything too focused on tofu still needs a bit of work. And kids, this place is not hard to find. It’s the Second Avenue stop on the F train.

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