Comfortable and living roomy, this very pleasant French restaurant on the corner of 88th Street is for those who love the French and are loved back by them. Didier Virot and his partner Philip Kirsh’s brasserie can make you a burger but why on earth would you come for that. Have the pasta layered with roasted artichoke, goat cheese, tomato confit and basil cream (does it sound like a French lasagne? Perhaps that’s why it’s so tasty.) Steamed cod with black trumpet mushrooms, basmati risotto, littleneck clams in herb broth is also a winner as is the lemon souffle– so very good. The occasional special brings in mussels or bouillabaisse and there’s also daurade on the menu, and since dorado fish can be hard to find on a menu, a plus to us. For those scared of butter, you can also get steak, chicken, lamb or fish grilled with your choice of sides and sauces. In true French fashion, the reason to be here is for the massive wine list. Representing nearly every region in France, wines which come from the owner’s personal cellar, are marked with a star. A staggering book of choices, if you’ve had a hard time finding a specific bottle, you might find it here. Be prepared for the markup however; it’s tres high.

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