restaurants
Smith's
79 Macdougal Street
212 260 0100

The enormously romantic story of how Cindy Smith (Raoul's) met Danny Abrams (Mermaid Inn, Red Cat) is the stuff of foodie fairy tales. Smith sold Abrams Spartina which he turned into The Harrison. This spot, Smith's, their first together is the confluence of their tastes in food, business and each other. Kentuckian Smith's southern roots are evident in the rustic, elegant spot that is a front room, long booths along a railroad car- themed wall and a speak-easy style back bar. Though we liked the pork chop, we found other things a bit salty once they hit the grill or pan such as the charred Cape Cod baby squid with lemon confit, olives and pancetta; brussel sprouts with almonds; and crispy skate wing, but other diners do love them. To us however, the winners are the small dishes. Scrumptious parmesan truffle deviled eggs, a simple and rich foie gras served with toast halves, sautéed snow peas with a silky peanut sauce, and a delightful drinks menu which includes a pineapple sage daiquiri, a home- made pimm's cup and a fabulous ginger lemonade with fresh citrus and ginger. There's also cider to rosé and a slew of the classics. But perhaps our favourite thing is the Sunday evening grilled cheese menu. Grilled Brie with truffled honey and sliced prosciutto; a mozzarella spiedini with wild mushroom cream, a Humboldt fog with pears and arugula and so forth. All served with shoestring fries, arugula and sumac pickles. Wonderful.

$$$

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