Via dei Mille might be the new Cipriani. For a new era that is. One where ostentation is out but conviviality and prosecco are still in. That’s not to say it’s not very European here – oh trust us, it is – is it aperitivo time yet? But while this spot, from restaurateurs Giuseppe Tuosto, Barry Mullineaux and Nicola Tuosto, sticks true to the formula of celebs (Jessica Alba, Marlon Wayans, Robert Buckley (Lipstick Jungle)) and posh large dinners (for designer Alvin Valley and legendary shutterbug Patrick McMullan), it seems toned down. The menu favourites are good Italian staples such as linguine in a white wine garlic sauce with clams and diced tomato and handmade ricotta cheese and spinach ravioli in a light butter sage sauce. And the draw for the every day crowd - a good dash of Upper East side (Annie Churchill, author Michael Gross etc) and tourists thrown in there (it is on West Broadway after all) - are such artistic elements as bimonthly art dinners, where a return to appreciating all that’s elegant (instead of just flashy) seems to be the ticket.

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