restaurants
John Dory Oyster Bar
1196 Broadway
212 792 9000

This spot at the corner of the Ace Hotel is probably the only thing we like about the hipster- mall that has become that building. There's oysters and chilled lobster and a myriad of platters out of which you can make a meal, but this spot is more suited to champagne and a couple of nibbles than a full- blown dining experience. For two reasons. One it's crowded, super crowded. Walk- ins wait at the bar and tables are tightly knit. Two the menu is quite expensive. Nearly everything seems either half the size you think it would be for the cost or twice the price you'd like to pay. That said, the bar has these things going for it: there is no attitude. Unlike every other thing attached to the Ace (or the Ace itself), they're genuinely nice here. As well, despite miniature portion sizes, the food is unusually good. Even the classic mignonette with the oysters is seasoned with a little something extra. Wellfleets, on the night we came, tasted better than any other Wellfleets we've had in the past. And bluntly, the celeb sightings are fab. Nowhere is it more true that there is no fame in this room. You'll either love that Paul Rudd is right next to you hammering away at that claw, just like you. Or feel betrayed that there's no veneer or gloss about the fact that he's struggling just as hard to get to that meat.

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