Named for the highway across the Campagna, this loud and busy restaurant with its long black banquette and simple cream coloured tables focuses on Southern Italian food. Those who don’t like the cuisine of the region or find it a poor cousin compared to Northern Italian should steer clear. But if you can overlook the unromantic dining room, this spot in the Marina, presided over by exec chef Christophe Hille, with its long room is great for table hopping in between your courses of chewy pecorino escarole pizza and pork breast with chestnuts.

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